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Arequipa
on Lake Titicaca is one of the pleasantest places in the
world: mountain air, bright sunshine, warm days, cool
nights, and a sparkling atmosphere dear to the hearts of
star-gazers. The city lies on a plateau, surrounded by
mighty snow-capped volcanoes, Chachani (20,000 ft.), El
Misti (19,000 ft.), and Pichu Pichu (18,000 ft.). Arequipa
is located on Puno bay.
The
bay of Puno grows quantities of totoras, giant bulrushes
sometimes twelve feet long. Ages ago the lake dwellers
learned to dry the totoras, tie them securely in long
bundles, fasten the bundles together, turn up the ends, fix
smaller bundles along the sides as a free-board, and so
construct a fishing-boat, or balsa. Of course the balsas
eventually become water-logged and spend a large part of
their existence on the shore, drying in the sun. Even so,
they are not very buoyant.
Tiahuanaco,
at the southern end of Lake Titicaca, in Bolivia, is famous
for the remains of a pre-Inca civilization. Unique among
prehistoric remains in the highlands of Peru or Bolivia are
its carved monolithic images. Although they have suffered
from weathering and from vandalism, enough remains to show
that they represent clothed human figures. The richly
decorated girdles and long tunics are carved in low relief
with an intricate pattern. While some of the designs are
undoubtedly symbolic of the rank, achievements, or
attributes of the divinities or chiefs here portrayed, there
is nothing hieroglyphic. The images are stiff and show no
appreciation of the beauty of the human form. Probably the
ancient artists never had an opportunity to study the human
body. In Andean villages, even little children do not go
naked as they do among primitive peoples who live in warm
climates. The Highlanders of Peru and Bolivia are always
heavily clothed, day and night. Forced by their climate to
seek comfort in the amount and thickness of their apparel,
they have developed an excessive modesty in regard to bodily
exposure.
Among
the thirty-six islands in Lake Titicaca, some belong
to Peru, others to Bolivia. Two of the latter, Titicaca and
Koati, were peculiarly venerated in Inca days. They are
covered with artificial terraces, most of which are still
used by the Indian farmers of today. On both islands there
are ruins of important Inca structures.
The
present-day Indians, known as Aymaras, seem to be hard
working and fairly cheerful. During several months of the
year everything is dried up and parched. The brilliant sun
of the tropics, burning mercilessly through the rarefied
air, causes the scant vegetation to wither. Then come
torrential rains. Needless to say, such downpours tend to
wash away the soil, which the farmers have painfully
gathered for field or garden. The sun in the daytime is
extremely hot, yet the difference in temperature between sun
and shade is excessive. Furthermore, the winds at night are
very damp; the cold is intensely penetrating. Fuel is
exceedingly scarce, there is barely enough for cooking
purposes, and none for artificial heat.
Food
is hard to get. Few crops can be grown at 12,500 feet. Some
barley is raised, but the soil is lacking in nitrogen. The
principal crop is the bitter white potato, which, after
being frozen and dried, becomes the insipid chuño, chief
reliance of the poorer families. The Inca system of bringing
guano from the islands of the Pacific coast has long since
been abandoned.
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