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The
Amazon River
The
Amazon River of South America is one of the longest two
rivers on Earth, the Nile River in Africa being the other.
The Amazon has by far the greatest total flow of any river,
carrying more than the Mississippi, Nile, and Yangtze rivers
combined. It also has the largest drainage area of any river
system. It may be correctly stated that the Nile is the
longest river, while the Amazon is the strongest.
The
quantity of fresh water released to the Atlantic Ocean is
enormous: 184,000 m³ per second (6.5 million ft³/s) in the
rainy season. Indeed, the Amazon is responsible for a fifth
of the total volume of fresh water entering the oceans
worldwide. It is said that offshore of the mouth of the
Amazon potable water can be drawn from the ocean while still
out of sight of the coastline, and the salinity of the ocean
is notably lower a hundred miles out to sea.
The
main river (which is usually between one and six miles wide)
is navigable for large ocean steamers to Manaus. Smaller
ocean vessels of 3,000 tons[1] and 5.5 m (18 ft) draft[2]
can reach as far as Iquitos, 3,700 km (2,300 miles) from the
sea. Smaller riverboats can reach 780 km (486 mi) higher as
far as Achual Point. Beyond that, small boats frequently
ascend to the Pongo de Manseriche, just above Achual
Point.
The
Amazon drains an area of some 6,915,000km² (2,722,000
mile²), or some 40 percent of South America. It gathers its
waters from 5 degrees north latitude to 20 degrees south
latitude. Its most remote sources are found on the
inter-Andean plateau, just a short distance from the Pacific
Ocean; and, after a course of about 7,200 km (4,800 mi)
through the interior of Peru and across Brazil, it enters
the Atlantic Ocean at the equator.
Source
and Upper Reaches
The
ultimate source of the Amazon has only recently been firmly
established as a stream on a 5,597 metre (18,363 ft) peak
called Nevado Mismi in the Peruvian Andes, roughly 160 km
(100 miles) N.N.E. of Lima. The mountain was first suggested
as the source in 1971 but this was not confirmed until 2001.
The stream from Nevado Mismi flows into Lake Lauricocha and
then the Apurímac River. The Apurímac is a tributary of
the Ucayali, which joins the Marañón to form the Amazon
proper.
Below
its confluence with the Huallaga, the river leaves Andean
terrain and is instead surrounded by flood plain. From this
point to the Ucayali, some 2,400 km (1,500 mi), the forested
banks are just out of water, and are inundated long before
the river attains its maximum flood-line. The low river
banks are interrupted by only a few hills, and the river
enters the enormous Amazon Rainforest.
Flooding
Seasonal
rains give rise to extensive floods along the course of the
Amazon and its tributaries. The average depth of the river
in the height of the rainy season is 40 m (120 ft) and the
average width can be nearly twenty-five miles. It starts to
rise in November, and increases in volume until June, then
falls until the end of October. The rise of the Negro branch
is not synchronous; the rainy season does not commence in
its valley until February or March. By June it is full, and
then it begins to fall with the Amazon. The Madeira rises
and falls two months earlier than the Amazon.
The
abundance of water in the Amazon basin is due to the fact
that much of this lies in the region below the
Inter-tropical convergence zone, where rainfall is at a
maximum. Also, the basin lies in the Trade Wind zone, where
moisture from the Atlantic is pushed westwards, and
eventually forced to rise over the Andes, the second tallest
mountain range on Earth, where the moist air cools and
precipitates water. This combination creates more rainfall
over a large river basin than anywhere else on the
planet.
In
the rainy season, the Amazon inundates the country
throughout its course to the extent of several hundred
thousand square miles, covering the flood plain, called
vargem. The flood-levels are, in some places, from 12 to 15
m (40 to 50 ft) higher than levels during the dry season.
During the flood, the level at Iquitos is 6 m (20 ft); at
Teffe, it is 15 m (45 ft); near Obidos, 11 m (35 ft); and at
Para, 4 m (12 ft), above the low-water extreme seen during
the dry season.
Towards
the Sea
The
breadth of the Amazon in some places is as much as 6 to 10
km (4 to 6 mi) from one bank to the other. At some points,
for long distances, the river divides into two main streams
with inland and lateral channels, all connected by a
complicated system of natural canals, cutting the low, flat
igapo lands, which are never more than 5 m (15 ft) above low
river, into almost numberless islands.
At
the narrows of Óbidos, 600 km (400 mi) from the sea, the
Amazon narrows, flowing in a single streambed, a mile (1.6
km) wide and over 200 ft (60 m). deep, through which the
water rushes toward the sea at the speed of 6 to 8 km/h (4
to 5 mph).
From
the village of Canaria at the great bend of the Amazon to
the Negro 1,000 km (600 mi) downstream, only very low land
is found, resembling that at the mouth of the river. Vast
areas of land in this region are submerged at high water,
above which only the upper part of the trees of the sombre
forests appear. Near the mouth of the Rio Negro to Serpa,
nearly opposite the river Madeira, the banks of the Amazon
are low, until approaching Manaus, they rise to become
rolling hills. At Óbidos, a bluff 17 m (56 ft) above the
river is backed by low hills. The lower Amazon seems to have
once been a gulf of the Atlantic Ocean, the waters of which
washed the cliffs near Óbidos.
Only
about 10% of the water discharged by the Amazon enters the
mighty stream downstream of Obidos, very little of which is
from the northern slope of the valley. The drainage area of
the Amazon basin above Óbidos is about 5 million km² (2
million mile²), and, below, only about 1 million km²
(400,000 mile²), or around 20%, exclusive of the 1.4
million km² (600,000 mile²) of the Tocantins basin.
In
the lower reaches of the river, the north bank consists of a
series of steep, table-topped hills extending for about 240
km (150 mi) from opposite the mouth of the Xingu as far as
Monte Alegre. These hills are cut down to a kind of terrace,
which lies between them and the river.
Monte
Alegre reaches an altitude of several hundred feet. On the
south bank, above the Xingu, an almost-unbroken line of low
bluffs bordering the flood plain extends nearly to Santarem,
in a series of gentle curves before they bend to the
south-west, and, abutting upon the lower Tapajos, merge into
the bluffs which form the terrace margin of the Tapajos
river valley.
Mouth
of the River
The
width of the mouth of the river is usually measured from
Cabo do Norte to Punto Patijoca, a distance of some 330 km
(207 mi); but this includes the ocean outlet, 60 km (40 mi)
wide, of the Para river, which should be deducted, as this
stream is only the lower reach of the Tocantins. It also
includes the ocean frontage of Marajo, an island about the
size of Denmark lying in the mouth of the Amazon.
Tidal
Bore
Following
the coast, a little to the north of Cabo do Norte, and for
100 miles along its Guiana margin up the Amazon, is a belt
of half-submerged islands and shallow sandbanks. Here the
tidal phenomenon called the bore, or Pororoca, occurs, where
the depths are not over 4 fathoms (7 m). The tidal bore
starts with a roar, constantly increasing, and advances at
the rate of from 15 to 25 km/h (10 to 15 mph), with a
breaking wall of water from 1.5 to 4 m (5 to 12 ft) high.
The bore is the reason the Amazon does not have a delta; the
ocean rapidly carries away the vast volume of silt carried
by the Amazon, making it impossible for a delta to
grow.
European
Exploration
Francisco
de Orellana made the first descent by a European of the
Amazon from the Andes to the sea in 1541.
Pedro
Teixeira, a Portuguese, who reversed the route of Orellana
and reached Quito by way of the Napo River, made the first
ascent by a European of the river in 1638. He returned in
1639 with the two Jesuit fathers Acuna and Artieda, who had
been delegated by the viceroy of Peru to accompany Texeira.
Name
Before
the conquest of South America, the Río de las Amazonas had
no general name; instead, indigenous peoples had names for
the sections of the river they occupied, such as Paranaguazu,
Guyerma, Solimões and others.
In
the year 1500, Vicente Yañez Pinzon, in command of a
Spanish expedition, became the first European to explore the
river, exploring its mouth when he discovered that the ocean
off the shore was fresh water. Pinzon called the river the
Rio Santa Maria de la Mar Dulce, which soon became
abbreviated to Mar Dulce, and for some years, after 1502, it
was known as the Rio Grande.
Pinzon's
companions called the river El Río Marañón. The word
Marañón is thought by some to be of indigenous origin.
This idea was first stated in a letter from Peter Martyr to
Lope Hurtado de Mendoza in 1513. However, the word may also
be derived from the Spanish word "maraña" —
meaning a tangle, a snarl, which well represents the
bewildering difficulties which the earlier explorers met in
navigating not only the entrance to the Amazon, but the
whole island-bordered, river-cut and indented coast of what
is now the Brazilian state of Maranhão.
The
name Amazon arises from a battle that Francisco de Orellana
had with a tribe of Tapuyas where the women of the tribe
fought alongside the men, as was the custom among the entire
tribe. Orellana derived the name Amazonas from the ancient
Amazons of Asia and Africa described by Herodotus and
Diodorus.
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