Cusco
Then and Now
Cusco
is a city in southeastern Peru in the Huatanay Valley
(Sacred Valley), of the Andes mountain range. It is the
capital of the Cusco Region as well as the Cusco Province.
The city has a population of about 300 000, triple the
population it contained just 20 years ago. Alternate
spellings include Cuzco, an anglicized variant, and Qusqu
with post-1987 Quechua orthography.
Cusco
was the capital of the Inca Empire. Many believe that the
city was planned to be shaped like a puma. The city had two
sectors: the hurin and hanan, which were further divided to
each encompass two of the four provinces, Chinchasuyu (NW),
Antisuyu (NE), Condesuyu (SW), and Collasuyu (SE). A road
led from each of these quarters to the corresponding quarter
of the empire. Each local leader was required to build a
house in the city and live part of the year in Cusco, but
only in the quarter of Cusco that corresponded to the
quarter of the empire he had territory in. After Pachacuti,
when an Inca died his title went to one son and his property
was given to a corporation controlled by his other
relatives, so each title holder had to build a new house and
add new lands to the empire, in order to own any home and
the land his family needed to maintain it after his death.
Andean Indians still abandon their homes and build new ones
when they marry, even if no one remains in the house.
According
to Inca legend, the city was built by Sapa Inca Pachacuti,
the man who transformed the Kingdom of Cusco from a sleepy
city-state into the vast empire of Tahuantinsuyu. But
archaeological evidence points to a slower, more organic
growth of the city beginning before Pachacuti. There was
however a city plan, and two rivers were channeled around
the city.
Many
of the Inca walls were thought to have been lost until a
1950 earthquake devastated the city. The granite walls of
Korikancha (the Sun Temple) were exposed, as well as many
walls throughout the city. Many wanted to restore the
buildings to their colonial splendor, but a contingent of
Cusco citizens wanted to retain the exposed walls.
Eventually they won out and now tourists from around the
world enjoy looking at these ruins within the living
city.
Many
buildings constructed after the conquest are of Spanish
influence with a mix of Inca architecture, including the
Santa Clara and San Blas. Often, Spanish buildings are
juxtaposed atop the massive stone walls built by the Inca.
The major earthquake that hit Cusco in 1950 badly destroyed
the Dominican Priory and Church of Santo Domingo, which were
built on top of Korikancha, but the city's Inca architecture
firmly withstood the earthquake. This was the second time
that the Dominican Priory was destroyed, the first being in
1650 when another major earthquake wracked Cusco. The Priory
was completely destroyed in 1650 as well.
Other
nearby Inca sites are Pachacuti's winter home Machu Picchu
which can be reached by a lightly maintained Inca trail, the
"fortress" at Ollantaytambo, and the
"fortress" of Sacsayhuaman which is approximately
two kilometers from Cusco. Other less visited ruins include
Inca Wasi, the highest of all Inca sites at 3,980 m (13,134
feet), Old Vilcabamba the capital of the Inca after the
capture of Cuzco, the sculpture garden at Chulquipalta (aka
Chuquipalta, Ñusta España, The White Rock, Yurak Rumi), as
well as Huillca Raccay, Patallacta, Choquequirao and many
others. The surrounding area, located in the Huatanay
Valley, is strong in agriculture, including corn, barley,
quinoa, tea and coffee, and gold mining.
Thanks
to remodeling, Cusco's main stadium, Estadio Garcilaso de la
Vega, attracted many more tourists during South America's
continental soccer championship, the Copa América 2004 held
in Peru.
|